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That gearbox sounds like a real old clanker. I made my own 6 speed box for an old Zyto .With 2 speed belt from the motor I get 12 speeds. My box is quieter made on a home converted clarke pillar drill with Chinese cutters from RDG tools. Not perfect but better than a lot of lathes you hear about. I have also put a 8000rpm variable speed Ac Dc motor on it so I can have high speed for small parts and can reduce the speed and use the low ratios on the box for torque. Rev range 8600 down to 35 rpm

I´ve just started my personal lottery by ordering one on ebay yesterday. Hopefully i´ll get no monday hangover piece - but you never know. April/May 2024, the price over here in Germany is 689,- € for a 750 W, with a 38 mm spindle bore and a 125 mm chuck. With metal gears, net weight is a whopping and hopefully rigid 61 kg. Its size is 20 x 40 cm or ca. 8 X 16 imps. Other sellers try to get around 1.000,- € for these. The small[er] model with 550 w and 7 by 14 in size is only around 50,- € cheaper. Especially the smaller motor, spindle bore and chuck, also the less weight are real setbacks if you want to work on steel. And working with aluminium and especially brass/copper/bronze is way more expensive. Fun fact: i know all this only by watching the usual lathe topic YT-channels extensively for over a year now. Maybe reality will hit me hard when my baby arrives. We´ll see. "Vorfreude ist die schönste Freude" as they say.

0 Cold blue is just barely acceptable for touch up. I like rust blue but it is time and labor consuming. Parkerizing also works well. Hot bluing, while it forms an attractive finish is my last option, just too nasty to work with if you don't have to.

Thx for posting my guy...👍

What make and model is this lathe? You give very good information.

Nice job(s) ! You might consider using long, (40mm) M8 grub screws in place of your bolts to hold both your4 jaw back plate and your 3 jaw chuck. I've done that to the three chucks I have for my lathe and believe you me, it's a lot easier to get nuts onto the grubscrews than it is to get a bolt started into a hole with little clearance. If you don't like it you can always change it back again.

I’m not sure but I think super blue eats gloves. Maybe it’s not concentrated enough idk

oiling ya stuff is mechanic 101.when your teacher slapped you everytime a piece of steel isnt coated you will do it without extra effort. i am still afraid of not coating something while i do not work in this branche anymore. also it is not that hard, if you accept that you waste lifetime at a lathe, oiling your equipment is easy. you still will think "i could do important stuff" while you are at the lathe. accepting that you ended up at a lathe is the hardest part, bc, you must sacrifice any human or artistic values you have to stand infront of a lathe. after you got rid of any ambigition it becomes easy. look how much time you put in the blueing while you could been using that time to become an firefighter or beat up those ppl that glue themself on the streets. also, blueing: do it the german way and just be happy to have the most efficent way.

Info on face mills? Look up ASME B5.50 and ISO 25.100.20

Interesting tool project, I also liked Lathe. Nice job.

Perfect video!

Just dont scribe with your mitutoyo

If you had made the Morse 1 first and put it in the spindle you would have gained better concentricity in the er11 taper cut. Otherwise it worked out pretty good. I think you have some rigidity problems in your cross slide based on your hss tool cuts. Something to check beyond just the gibs.

Either make a hob or for a small worm gear, simply make a tap at the pitch and pressure angle you need and use it as a hob.

do fine pitch threads like that make it difficult to single-point inside cut with a boring bar?

the hot oil blue is better referred to as flame-bluing, in my opinion, but i guess it has no proper name other than what you decide to call it? i enjoy heat treatment, polishing, and bluing. the different bluings dont all come out as polished as the bare metal was before, im pretty sure caustic bluing is the only one to keep the polish other than flame bluing. correct me if im wrong, but i think rust blue and cold blue make the surface a bit dull if it was previously polished/

I’ve seen some metalworkers use an alkaline quenching solution, I never inquired about why they did it.

Can I use my band as to section the HSS, or is it too hard? I used to operate a large shipboard lathe as a machinists mate in the Coast Guard, but that was back in the ‘70s. I used to grind all of my own tools, as they didn’t have the pre made brazed or index tools back then. Just getting back into turning, and this is a good video to re learn the process. Thank you

This seems like an awesome option to get a really cool custom chess set.

If that old tap and die has been like that for as long as you can remember how come you didn't cleaned the rust off of it long ago it was probably in better shape long ago then it is now you know rust doesn't stop it keeps going unless you clean it up

would have been nice to turn the holder again after welding. Facing the faces and turn the rest between centers with the ball turning jig. it would have given the now flat sides a slight radius.

Good video😀But you need a metal bandsaw dude 😉

What about the parting function..Is it able/strong enough doing that..I had a kina lathe few year's ago vith a 125mm chuck and the parting function was impossible in steel...Aluminum and plastics was okey though

I have had a Sherline Lathe and mill for 15 years they were both converted to CNC as well. Here is the bottom line. they are not suited to CNC with or without ball screws. they are as rigid as wet noodles and the wear surfaces are terrible. the bed is not hardened and the wear surfaces on the cross slide system comprises of anodized aluminum and wears very quickly. If you tighten the gibs to get acceptable tolerances then the torque of your hand turning the handwheels is enough to twist the cross slide and ruin your work. if you want to do lathe work on a budget long term go with a Precision Matthews unit or similar in the 10 inch range. if you must stay with a small unit... then go with a Taig. the Taig at least has adjustable brass gibs with multiple points that ride on steel dovetails that has nearly double the wear surface as compared to the Sherline.

So, with the Sodium Peroxide and boiling method, do you need to do it multiple times to get the colour or to make the rust resistance better?

Thank you for this.

Nicely done! I fully agree on the commercial die holders...

Did you like this machine ?

I came to these comments with just one thing to say - why don't you have a bandsaw - and then saw that this was the running theme of your comments lol....

it's turning, not lathing!

My grandpa used to say "it takes a great painter to make a great carpenter." In metal, I've heard it said "a grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't."

I was thinking of fitting ballscrews to mine, if possible.

I do this but with carbide shank tools, like old end mills. A Dbit grinder makes short work of it and they become amazing tools. Carbide blanks in 1/8 and 3/16 are really cheap and make for some amazing small stock boring bars. Great stuff.

the welds look solid enough, to make a part like that pretty you have to use a rotator or be some kind of welding machine

Well I learned something today. How to add carbon to mild steel so it can be hardened, can't wait to try. Thanks for posting 🙏

Very nice! Can I be your friend? 😆

Be careful using a collet chuck in the lathe spindle unless you have a drawbar for it. MT tapers don't like lateral loads, there's a nonzero chance that the cutting forces could "wobble" the taper loose and ruin the part or the tool or both. That's why MT mill spindles have drawbars even though the taper is self-locking. 👍

I loved this but I don’t like the idea of leaving the chuck key in the tail stock chuck it worries me a little 😮

Hi, and thanks for your useful video! Just a question (I'm an absolute turning beginner...) So, most of the time I keep the compound cross-slide perfectly aligned to Z axis, and use its handle for small Z movements, finding it more precise and smooth than the Z handwheel, but doing so I would defeat the Z reading, right? So it looks like when in DRO mode I should refrain from using the cross slide Z displacement, is it so? Thank you!

This is a good promotional video for HAFCO and their range of obnoxiously noisy lathes

For everyone that says hex dies are for thread chasing only, what makes them any different to a carbon steel split die? I have a set of both and they do the same thing

That's awesome I was trying to drill through hardened steel and I just couldn't do it without buying carbine drill bit I just couldn't do it came across your video and was able to finish a job thank you so much

The tool looked really good until you welded it

But will it mill a lower?

drawings would be great!

You should make a small rotary table it will benefit the welds you do

BOOGA!

if you need to machine parts on OD with holes, just clamp a pice of pipe and press it to the pipe with a live center. face up the pipe first.

I think Hex Dies are to clean threads,,,. Round Dies are to make threads,

At 21:42, you mention brazing vs welding. If you braze before case hardening, won't the brazing go away or become contaminated during heating + CO gas, while case hardening? If you do the brazing after case hardening, won't the heat from brazing damage the case hardening or the case hardening interfere with the adhesion of the braze? Chicken or egg with the brazing step? Why not just practice a little bit more, give yourself a couple of fillets to weld against and grind down the worst of the high spots? Maybe you could get away with just straight fusion welding without filler rod? Maybe make up some custom filler rod rings and then do a fusion type of process with a ring of filler material in the fillet gap?? Thanks for this video.