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HI there. Thank you. So, your laptop>ATEM>Decimator>Projector setup is correct and very common and no, there's no issue with doing that.......I do it every week with live-event setups. If your Decimator is located NEAR the projector and using the HDMI output of the Decimator into the HDMI input of the projector, you might actually WANT to try setting the HDMI Output type of the Decimator back to RGG444. HDMI inputs may be expecting that "full range." Granted, that doesn't necessarily change COLOR per sé, just black/white levels, etc. If your projector has an SDI input, then you may just be going Decimator SDI Output > SDI Projector Input. In that case (or either case), if you're having color issues.....then I'd say your issues lie with the projector, and NOT the laptop/ATEM side. You'll have to dig into your projectors settings and check everything: Check what type of signal it's expecting, check color, change/alter your brightness/contrast, color settings WITH the projector settings........because your laptop is your reference point as long as your laptop's screen is a good one (If you're using Apple macbook pros, then those screens are pretty darn good as-is, so then try to get your projector to match your laptop screen as best as you can using the settings on the projector). There are thousands of projector models, and lots of settings inside those projectors......and some are just way worse "out of the box" than others. Long story short, the Decimator in this setup *shouldn't be causing you color-matching issues at the projector.

Hi there. Thank you! I currently still use a $13 mic arm to mount (at most) 3 microphones on the same arm. I have (2) of my mics mounted just about ALL the time so I can (1) have virtual meetings using the Rode VideoMic NTG, and (2) record videos using the Rode NTG-5. Here's the arm I use: amzn.to/49Glnxa It's cheap, light, but it does hold everything, I've had no reason to upgrade. I then have a 5/8" to 1/4-20 adapter mounted on the end: amzn.to/3QebTlY Then the 1/4-20 screw of that adapter goes into a dual cold-shoe mount: amzn.to/447lyjO That dual cold shoe mount holds: (2) mini ball mounts (mounted on both sides of the dual cold-shoe)t: amzn.to/4b4JMNX - One ball head holds my Rode NTG-5, the other ball head goes on the other side of the same cold shoe mount.......and holds....... (1) MORE Cold-shoe mount (Ulanzi PT-2 - amzn.to/3JtyzuA) on the OTHER side of the SesenPro cold shoe mount)......this additional cold-shoe mount gives me a 3rd cold-shoe mounting point so I can mount a total of (3) mics if needed. My Rode VideoMic NTG is mounted to one side of the Ulanzi cold-shoe mount, which puts it right next to my Rode NTG-5, then the 3rd cold shoe mount is "free" and lets me mount other mics I want to test as needed. Granted, my chosen mounting method is via cold-shoe instead of standard microphone 5/8" or 3/8" mounts, but, so far this has worked well for me and I just add a cold-shoe-to 5/8" or 3/8" adapter somehow to mount a standard mic clip if I want to test an XLR mic, etc. I hope that makes sense.....but yes, both of the dual-cold-shoe mounts, the 2 mini ball mounts, the videoMic NTG, and the Rode NTG-5, and *mostly any additonal mic I put up there, can be held by the $13 arm. It gets pretty heavy when I mount a 3rd mic, but I just tighten up the arm and so far so good, it all holds generally where I need it to stay. Now, since I need my mics mounted high, AND because of my desk/speaker/computer-monitor set up.....behind my computer monitor, I have the mic arm clamped to a spare VESA monitor arm (amzn.to/49NDFwH) to get more height out of the overall setup. I think I got this idea from Caleb Pike here: krplus.net/bidio/h8mceWh-fYaanKQ. And that WHOLE Vesa-Mount-to-mic-boom-arm is mounted on the back of my desk-shelf.....and that shelf sits about 10" above my main desk......so the whole mic arm system is already mounted higher than the standard 30" tall desk and that gives me all the height I need. .....and I did this because I need to be able to raise my computer monitor UP quite high to reveal my main front-camera for recording......when I raise up my monitor, I generally do NOT have to move my microphones at all, as the mic boom-arm mid-hinge point creates a high point for my monitor to slide-up-in-to. So, the whole thing goes: VESA Monitor arm mounted on back of desk shelf which sits 10" above my main desk surface > Mic boom arm clamped to the end of the vesa-arm > 5/8" to 1/4"-20 adapter on the end of the boom-arm > SesenPro dual-cold-shoe mount > with Neewer mini ball heads attached to each cold-shoe mounting point - Mini ball head on right side of SesenPro dual cold shoe mount = Rode NTG-5 - Mini ball head on left side SesenPro dual cold shoe mount = Ulanzi PT-2 dual cold shoe mount > Right side of PT-2 dual cold shoe mount = Rode VideoMic NTG Left side of PT-2 Dual cold shoe mount = empty/available for additional microphone mounting. That's probably way more than you asked for, maybe I should make a video on it :) Happy recording!

Hi there. It depends on the brand you're talking about. A lot of brands may have their own proprietary slide-in mounts. Specifically, I have moved over to Falcam F38 plates and clamps because the F38 plates #1 are Arca-swiss compatible (they have the dove-tail design and will fit into any generic arca swiss clamps), but the F38 system has it's own proprietary "slide-in" mount which I love because it clicks-in, and has a button you have to press to release the plate, and then you can also lock the clamp so you don't accidentally press the release button. The Falcam F38 plate/clamp system *is a bit pricier than generic plates/clamps, but for me it's been worth it because of the quick slide in/out, and lockability. Here's their V1 system, of which I have MANY!!: amzn.to/4aL3n60 And here's their v2 system, of which I have a few: amzn.to/4d0GtcB The cool thing is that the F38 plates fit both the V1 and V2 receiving clamps. That is the system I would recommend for slide-in/out ability.

Hi there. Do NOT give full phantom power to this mic. These small mics only require (and can usually only handle) the 3V to 5V of "Plug in power" that is given by the 3.5mm preamps on cameras. Giving this mic 24 or 48V will probably fry it. However, you can use the Rode VXLR+ (Make sure it's the "plus" model) because the VXLR+ has a power converter that will convert the 48V phantom power of a mixer down to about 5V for small mics like this. The set up would be: VXR10 > 3.5mm TRS Cable > VXLR+ > XLR input on mixer > turn on phantom power on mixer.

@@MarcusHutsell Golden reply! Thx.

Glad to help!

If only I had that mullet!

Hi there. I currently still use a $13 mic arm to mount (at most) 3 microphones on the same arm. You don't have to use any specific arm, I just use adapters to get any mic-arm to have my receiving-device-of-choice. So.......here's the setup: I have (2) of my mics mounted just about ALL the time so I can (1) have virtual meetings using the Rode VideoMic NTG, and (2) record videos using the Rode NTG-5. Here's the arm I use: amzn.to/49Glnxa It's cheap, light, but it does hold everything, I've had no reason to upgrade. I then have a 5/8" to 1/4-20 adapter mounted on the end: amzn.to/3QebTlY Then the 1/4-20 screw of that adapter goes into a dual cold-shoe mount: amzn.to/447lyjO That dual cold shoe mount holds: (2) mini ball mounts (mounted on both sides of the dual cold-shoe)t: amzn.to/4b4JMNX - One ball head holds my Rode NTG-5, the other ball head goes on the other side of the same cold shoe mount.......and holds....... (1) MORE Cold-shoe mount (Ulanzi PT-2 - amzn.to/3JtyzuA) on the OTHER side of the SesenPro cold shoe mount)......this additional cold-shoe mount gives me a 3rd cold-shoe mounting point so I can mount a total of (3) mics if needed. My Rode VideoMic NTG is mounted to one side of the Ulanzi cold-shoe mount, which puts it right next to my Rode NTG-5, then the 3rd cold shoe mount is "free" and lets me mount other mics I want to test as needed. Granted, my chosen mounting method is via cold-shoe instead of standard microphone 5/8" or 3/8" mounts, but, so far this has worked well for me and I just add a cold-shoe-to 5/8" or 3/8" adapter somehow to mount a standard mic clip if I want to test an XLR mic, etc. I hope that makes sense.....but yes, both of the dual-cold-shoe mounts, the 2 mini ball mounts, the videoMic NTG, and the Rode NTG-5, and *mostly any additional mic I put up there, can be held by this $13 arm. It gets pretty heavy when I mount a 3rd mic, but I just tighten up the arm and so far so good, it all holds generally where I need it to stay. Now, since I need my mics mounted high, AND because of my desk/speaker/computer-monitor set up.....behind my computer monitor, I have the mic arm clamped to a spare VESA monitor arm (amzn.to/49NDFwH) to get more height out of the overall setup. I think I got this idea from Caleb Pike here: krplus.net/bidio/h8mceWh-fYaanKQ. And that WHOLE Vesa-Mount-to-mic-boom-arm is mounted on the back of my desk-shelf.....and that shelf sits about 10" above my main desk......so the whole mic arm system is already mounted higher than the standard 30" tall desk and that gives me all the height I need. .....and I did this because I need to be able to raise my computer monitor UP quite high to reveal my main front-camera for recording......when I raise up my monitor, I generally do NOT have to move my microphones at all, as the mic boom-arm mid-hinge point creates a high point for my monitor to slide-up-in-to. So, the whole thing goes: VESA Monitor arm mounted on back of desk shelf which sits 10" above my main desk surface > Mic boom arm clamped to the end of the vesa-arm > 5/8" to 1/4"-20 adapter on the end of the boom-arm > SesenPro dual-cold-shoe mount > with Neewer mini ball heads attached to each cold-shoe mounting point - Mini ball head on right side of SesenPro dual cold shoe mount = Rode NTG-5 - Mini ball head on left side SesenPro dual cold shoe mount = Ulanzi PT-2 dual cold shoe mount > Right side of PT-2 dual cold shoe mount = Rode VideoMic NTG Left side of PT-2 Dual cold shoe mount = empty/available for additional microphone mounting. That's probably way more than you asked for, maybe I should make a video on it :) Happy recording!

Thank you! I’m glad it helped

You’re welcome!

Good luck!

Thank you so much!! I appreciate it :)

So, the warning also now shows up with dummy-batteries, I've been using the USB-C port on the A7iv and FX30 for main/backup power. Basically, keep a Sony battery in the camera, this way if the USB-C power gets cut off, the camera still has a battery inside and won't shut off. I supply USB-C power with either a power cable (wall-power, etc) and use an Anker GAN Prime charger, this one: amzn.to/3TQqVzn Or, my mobile solution is to use the SmallRig NPF-Battery plate amzn.to/4aGtdb4 that ALSO has a USB-C Power Delivery OUTPUT port, then use any size Sony/Neewer NPF battery. As long as the USB-C power supply (USB-Brick, battery, etc) can supply the required 9 Volts and between 2-3 amps, (18-27 watts) then the camera will use the USB-C Power/external battery first, and with the NPF battery option, you can hot-swap the external battery even if the camera is recording.

Hi there. You’re very welcome and I’m glad my video helped! And your English is great! I only speak English, so you’re doing better than me. Happy Recording!

Hi there. So, I assume you're talking about the TC Helicon GOXLR. If so, I would also assume you're talking about this model: amzn.to/3POBZvy Secondly, Sony does not make a "ZE-10" to my knowledge, but let's assume you're talking about the ZV-E10. The GOXLR has both a stereo 3.5mm headphone output as well as a stereo 3.5mm "Line-Out" audio output. And the Sony ZV-E10 has a 3.5mm mic-input. Long story short, you'd use the 3.5mm "Line Out" audio output and send that into the 3.5mm input using a 3.5mm TRS cable like this: amzn.to/43Qy8DT Then I'd start by setting your Sony ZV-E10 camera audio at about level "3", then gain up your microphone using the GoXLR, and push the fader up on the GOXLR to get audio to go out of the line-level output and watch your meters on the ZV-E10 to make sure you don't clip out the camera's audio input. Let me know if that makes sense, but it should be a simple connection.

yep yep, for sure. I will say though, that, all of my Tamron lenses and the autofocus on my Sony A7iv are pretty much flawless......but using those same lenses on the FX30 has had different outcomes. But yes, I am then using a different camera. I have been updating the firmware on my lenses and I've had some better autofocus performance, but I haven't had time to really do a lot of in depth testing......but even my Viltrox 13mm seems to have gotten better at autofocus on the FX30 with that update. I am just disappointed a bit with the FX30's overall autofocus performance when using the lenses I already owned and have had really good experience with on my A7iii and my A7iv. I assumed with a newer camera like the FX30 that the autofocus performance would be mostly identical......guess I was wrong.

@@MarcusHutsell I'm sorry to hear that. I have an A7C and was thinking to switch to the FX30 because of the 60/120fps 4K and 10bit files more suitable for color grading, but the autofocus seems to be a lottery I'm not ready for. (I have FE 35mm & 85mm 1.8, and apsc 50mm & Sigma 16mm. AF works reliably on A7C).

yeah, they are, but at least they're compact/small.

Hi there. That Seetec monitor is the ATEM156, it has 4 hdmi inputs and its own internal multi-viewer so you can see all 4 inputs on screen. Pretty good monitor, it’s not super bright, so I wouldn’t try to use it outside… but in office, studio environments it works great. I do we should have waveforms… But at least it has false color, which helps me see my exposure despite how “bright“ or dim the monitor is. In my opinion, false color is the absolute minimum of exposure tools needed on a production monitor. I do also wish this one had SDI inputs… But having SDI puts usually costs more and a simply converter gets the job done. Here’s an Amazon link if you want to use that. amzn.to/3xixqDm Happy Production-ing!

@@MarcusHutsell thanks… I am considering the 4x SDI input version so good to know your thoughts on the hdmi version. They are usually in a black tent so should be ok. Thanks

Hey Marcus - follow up on that monitor - how do you calibrate it…..eyeball or which probe etc? Many thanks

Hi there, You're welcome, I'm glad it was helpful!

Hi there. Thank you so much, I'm very glad you found the video helpful! I've found that even "standard" lighting situations/setups don't always work for the look I want......or at the very least don't work for how it makes me look in certain scenes, so when I set up in m garage like this I'm always having to experiment with the lighting a bit to get the look I want while highlighting other things I may need to showcase or areas that are too dark. I find it fun to create those looks, and I always seem to need ........."just one more light!!" ha! Cheers and happy recording :)

Thanks!

Awesome!! I'm so glad the video helped! And thank you so much, I appreciate it. Happy meeting-and-recording!

He there. Thank you so much! If I had time, I would certainly be making more videos… And sometimes I also do not understand my subscription level when I see other KRplusrs saying they got 10,000 subscribers in four months… Then again, with my full-time job, I don’t have time to dedicate to making more videos and focusing on KRplus, but I think that’s one of my goals. I’m very glad my video helped, I seem to be very passionate about all things audio, video, and Lighting, and getting down and dirty into the depths of everything and talking about it and educating people. Cheers, and happy recording!

Thank you so much, I’m very glad the video helped :-)