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- 게시일 2024. 04. 24.
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I ran into some big issues with the build, and I need your help to solve them!
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Tavarish - get in contact with the DEBOSS Garage guys - they did a multi-part explanation for their quad turbo Audi build and they did a similar sump/scavange pump for their setup. They can definitely point you in the right direction. You might even be able to control the scavenge pump with the Syvecs ECU and level transmitters. Food for thought. Hope it all works out for the best!
And then DeBoss will call Mechanical Stig and Turbo Yoda to ACTUALLY FIX IT!! 😂🤣
👌👌👈
Im canadian,, deboss is an embarrassment to my people,, im glad they are from ontario,,
Chris Chris I’m Canadian too (yay Alberta!) they aren’t an embarrassment at all - Rich is a great heavy duty mechanic and he definitely works hard - see how dirty he is all the time? Rich uses lots of hands on experience and critical thinking to try to get things figured out - not everything works perfect the first time.
If you don’t gold wrap those oil catch cans then this build is lost...
It sure is
Amen
Try a prolific driver
Richard Satterly SMH
Cap for the catch can
Tavarish - Before you just throw money at the problem, make sure you identify the "Real" issues.
1. Remove turbos as a variable, to ensure this is your cause for smoke!
2. Swap turbos to test your theory of bad drainage as a culprit for the smoke. (ensuring seals are okay)
3. Then, DON"T add a catch can. Moisture can enter your oil system due to the filter!
Concur- right now you don't "know" if the turbos are the source of the smoke. This should be definitively verified before you start throwing more resources at the turbo setup.
The turbos have to gravity drain, Al talks about this on skidfactory. With just an inline pump you are sucking oil out of the turbo reducing pressure.
Tavarish, the answer to your turbo oil issue is outlined in Hoonigan's video of Bisimoto's track porsche. Watch that video. His solution to the problem would work perfectly for this. He basically created a small sump for each turbo to drain into. Not much bigger than a deck of cards for each turbo, but it's enough to make them not eat oil. EDIT: oh, that's exactly what you're doing. I made my comment before getting to that part...
I have that on my snowmobile also. There is a little square sump underneath the turbo. Works well.
The pump you showed looks way to big for what you need. As for the heat sinks on the reservoir I can only imagine the temps of the oil. Seems to me you have an oil temp transfer problem and not just a oil transfer problem. Pressure is your friend in a sealed system but the minute you let off the gas you've got a problem. When is the oil introduced? A check valve could solve the problem.
If you want to test. Just add the catch, test, and if it works just build the scavenge-system.
I've built a couple turbo cars, I wouldn't hesitate to use the catch tanks, or weld my own tanks, doesn't really matter.
Just remember this could increase the amount of oil you will need in the system.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think he'd need 2 scavenge pumps cause if he has 2 tanks a y adapter wouldn't work cause the vaccum would take the path of least resistance and only drain one tank. Also the scanner driver thing... When it says serial port it's likely talking about a virtual serial port not physical. This is how arduino etc boards work and I have a feeling this is similar. First step I'd take is go to device manger and see if there is any unrecognised devices. If you can't get the driver working then try an older system.
@@AntonBabiy you could hook up a vacuum gauge on both catch cans and check for vaccum
Try and make the lines same length with same fitting and your losses will be similar.
Would it be a good idea to remove the air filter on each catch can, close off the ports, and make it a closed system?
I would be worried of the electric pump sucking in air, and creating foamy oil...
anton babiy the catch cans are tall and narrow, and we assume they will be mounted in symmetrical vertical locations level with each other. in that case, a single pump should work but will be sucking air most of the time. hopefully the pump is rated for that type of service. it could be a problem if the car is not level side-to-side with the engine running for a long period of time, oil could overflow from the breathers.
matthew phelps it's a dry sump system. in stock form, it already holds more than 3 times the oil that the engine needs.
Tavarish the type of guy to fit the bumper and take it out the next day
Ｎａｊｉｍｕ なじむ 100% true
To get it painted, yeah
@@Cerberus984 wow 😐
LOVE MOUNTAIN BIKING englisch please
@LOVE MOUNTAIN BIKING Who the fuck goes to the burn ward in a hospital to find a girlfriend / wifey? That best explains how stupid buying crispy burnt super cars with super rare parts and a super price premium.
You need to call turbo yoda!
needs a turbo oil sump like on the bedford
@@superhacker101 he actually sais that on the video.
That would be great if Al showed up with Marty and Moog ;)
Turbo Yoda and a Welding Jedi working on the same vehicle?
@@jefffutral9102 yes, turbo yoda woud ride on his back😂
Turbos need a vented sump (yes, the catch can will work) with scavenge pumps. Ask me how I know
how do you know?
Just cover the flanges with flexseal!
Or flextape flextape fixes everything
? jb weld any one lol
ISAWEDTHISBOATINHALF
to prove the power of flextape
I SAWED THIS LAMBORGHINI IN HALF
and repaired it using only flextape.
T H A T S A L O T T A D A M A G E
Have you tried turning it off and on again?
The IT Crowd - Love It!
Has he tried hitting it with a hammer?
Unpulg and plug it back in?
Try new batteries
Stephen D'Amico haha exactly. I know some people would get it
I looked up the Actia XS knockoffs at Aliexpress and it seems they all require a 32bit Windows OS. Additionally when there is an USB plug instead of the expected serial connection I assume a builtin USB-to-serial IC. Common USB-to-serial ICs are CH340 (Chinese!), FTDI232, CP2102 or PL2303. Every IC needs it's own driver provided by the IC manufacturer. Normally you could identify the IC by its vendor and device IDs in the Windows device manager. Good luck!
Beware of the PL2303... most of them require the 3.2.0.0 driver because the counterfeit chips used in a lot of chinese products detect the fake chip and halt the driver operation...
Also you probably need to specify a serial port, I’m not sure how that works anymore but I remember that that was an issue with the usb/odb cable I had for my previous car. And 64bit might be a problem as well like pointed out above.
Try installing the drivers manually in Device Manager. Connect the device, find it in Device Manager, right click, update driver, and browse your computer for driver software.
I'd also double check the type/quality of serialusb adapter you're using between the device and your laptop. I'm not very well versed in old school serial but I'm quite sure you'd want an active adapter that's tested to work for your operating system.
YOU CAN NOT PUMP OIL AND AIR IN TO YOUR CRANKCASE WITH A DRY SUMP SYSTEM! You have to use the breathers on the catch cans (yes thei will work) so the scavange pump can work. The drysump system shuld be pulling vacum on the crankcase so if you return the oil air mix from the scavenge pump to the crankcase the drysump system will be unable to pull vacum. If you run it to the external oiltank you shuld be fine as long as you are not airating the oil to much. Always watch your oilpresure. Sorry for bad spelling
He literally says that he's recirculating the oil in to the tank, not the pan. Jesus Christ.
The crankcase MUST be in a vacuum (positive crankcase ventilation). Test it with a manometer. Perhaps there is no provision for blocking positive pressure going into the crankcase. A one-way valve would block boost pressure from entering the crankcase. Need lower pressure (vacuum) for the oil to properly return to the sump. K.I.S.S.
@brooksman
I think what Játvarður means is this (but granted, I am not 100% sure):
-Tavarish should consider removing the air filters from the catch cans, and close off the air filter ports, so no air is sucked in at the turbo oil return system.-
The PROBLEM he is having is that both turbo oil drains hit a Y piece THAT IS TOO SMALL, before they go into the tank. SO ONE SIDE BLOCKS THE OTHER SIDE. Ive tried to get this through for a while but its impossible to get this info to him. IF ANYONE CAN TELL HIM, TELL HIM TO JUST MEASURE THE COMBINED VOLUME OF THE TWO DRAIN LINES, THEN COMPARE THAT TO THE VOLUME OF THE Y PIECE, AND YOU WILL SEE THE Y PIECE IS WAY TOO SMALLLLLL!!!!!! (as in the Volume of a circle, as in the circle round of the lines, as in the volume of a 2-D slice of the lines. google volume of a circle calculator. plug in the value of the diameters of those lines, and you will see the Y section IS TOO SMALL!) THAT Y SECTION PIECE ***MUST*** have a greater volume than the combined volume of the input lines! Honestly he should just put two separate holes in the tank and have each turbo drain separate.
Radbug tavarish this guy has a point. At least consider a wider outlet y fitting
Awesome dog. I've got one that looks just as sad unless it is time to eat.
It’s awesome that there’s guys out there with a ton of knowledge & can help good guys like Tavarish with these types of projects.
That crazy kinetic pan/edit at 6:01 is quite mind-blowing.
That solution should work great! Let's the turbos gravity drain and the pump will evacuate the catch cans. This might alleviate the need for an after-run relay as well.
he PROBLEM he is having is that both turbo oil drains hit a Y piece THAT IS TOO SMALL, before they go into the tank. SO ONE SIDE BLOCKS THE OTHER SIDE. Ive tried to get this through for a while but its impossible to get this info to him. IF ANYONE CAN TELL HIM, TELL HIM TO JUST MEASURE THE COMBINED VOLUME OF THE TWO DRAIN LINES, THEN COMPARE THAT TO THE VOLUME OF THE Y PIECE, AND YOU WILL SEE THE Y PIECE IS WAY TOO SMALLLLLL!!!!!! (as in the Volume of a circle, as in the circle round of the lines, as in the volume of a 2-D slice of the lines. google volume of a circle calculator. plug in the value of the diameters of those lines, and you will see the Y section IS TOO SMALL!) THAT Y SECTION PIECE **MUST** have a greater volume than the combined volume of the input lines! Honestly he should just put two separate holes in the tank and have each turbo drain separate.
He already knows that, this is the reason why he give up the idea of directly routing to the crankcase because the fitting space on the crankcase is too small for anything larger then a -8 AN fitting to be installed, so please, stop with the ALL CAPPPPPPP!!!!! bs.
Take a look at the 03-1054 scavenge pump from rbracing-rsr . Connect the drain lines from both turbo's to this scavenge pump and then use the pump to return the oil. No need for catch cans. There are other pumps like the TurboWerx Exa-Pump. These pumps can also be mounted ABOVE the turbo in the engine bay and still scavenge the oil
Its still best to have a sump for the turbos and then scavenge from that.
You are my hero.
Same
Using the catch cans a the perfect solution. I've built a few high hp cars and had similar issues. The catch cans were very crucial to the builds. You can wire a timer into the scavenge pump circuit to control the pump. The reason you want that is to make it fool proof. The pump can be programmed to come on for a determined amount of time after engine start. You can program cycle times during engine run and to turn off after engine stop. Essentially the same thing that a turbo timer does to help cool down a hot turbo and remove hot oil to keep it from cooking in the hot turbo at shut off.
Keep up the good work. I'm in the process of doing my C4 Corvette. Nothing as exotic or exciting as your turbo Lambo but a fun car to have.
I know you made a video already about the oil drain, but did you try to straight pipe down to ground off the turbo, then rev hard to see if you are still getting oil in the turbo? I would make sure your system is capable of getting rid of it before installing this huge system. I would just want to be ultra confident it’s a “drain pipe” issue and not a too much oil being fed!
The pump should have more than enough flow to take care of this, and the oil pressure going into the turbo isn't anywhere near enough to require a restrictor, as per the manufacturer's specs.
Tavarish yeah but why not just try it like he said just to be safe?
sparkle1234
You’re right but that would ‘save’ yet another episode lol
@@tavarish Hello, I think those banjo style fittings may be too restrictive, possibly an an style and a thicker hose would do the trick with less hassle than the additional catch tanks and scavenge pump?
Just a possibility, but if the problem isn't solved fully afterwards, you can still install the other shebang...
Anyway... Thumbs up to your work!
you have to watch volume not pressure. Its worth a shot...
You need a turbo drip tank like on a Porsche 930. It works like a fuel surge tank. But again, you still need a scavenge system. Some drip tanks are vented and some are not, it will depend on the amount of flow.
The catch can is exactly this.
I’m a fuel systems engineer. Viper is my tank BtW. To check for a leak you can do a pressure decay test. You need a 0-2psi regulator gauge or something real low + shut off valve. Plug the vent line that connects to the canister. Pressurize the tank to 1-2 psi. Close the valve see if there is bleed down innpressure. Spray soapy water on all joints to see where the leak is. You may also have a pinhole leak in the tank somewhere from some DIYer that is using a drill. so spray everywhere. Sweet ride man.
I had the same problem with another car. Get a virtual machine software, install a windows 7 on it or XP better, and then you will find drivers easy, and there might be drivers coming with the software installation so check that (By manually leading windows to software installtion file and attempting to install drivers manually). Most of the software comes with car specific drivers like if u are running a 2008 Spider there should be drivers that have a name reference to it. And once u got the software, u can set which com port u want to use in the virtual machine, remember that OBDs have a tendency to run on a specific port so make sure u are using the correct port once connected but if u got no clue try swaping them from 1 to 12 those are the most loved ones.
Tavarish the type of guy to sleep in his car when his wife is mad at him
P.S. Keep up the good work Tavarish!! Love seeing where this car came from
He's the guy to sleep with his car if his wife is mad at him
Tavarish the type of guy to sleep with his wife when his car is made at him
He’s the type of guy to sleep in his car even when his wife is not mad at him.
His wife is the kind of gall that’s mad cause he’s sleeping in his car……again.
abou824 Yes, I think he smashed his Lambo
Man I wish I knew more about auto mechanical stuff to help you.. I know literally nothing when it comes to things like this.
lol same.
Sounds like your ECU doesnt have a PID for the evap vent solenoid which is keeping it open all the time causing the fuel vapor to just vent out.
Love the project! I been following this build from the start. Regarding the oil pump placement, I think it’s a smart move to place it as low in the car as possible, under the level of the turbo’s and under the outlet of the catch can. Pumps tend to like as little vacuum on the suction side as possible, you will also have one less problem with the oil draining back in the catch can and leaving the pump dry every time the car is shut off. And is it possible to get the turbo drain out of the bottom instead of the side?
Scavenger pump. I do not believe there is enough vacuum from the bottom of the engine to get the oil out of the turbos. The catch cans should work just fine. I think what you proposed idea is a good one.
Prob would help but tank may be in wrong spot or fill hole to low for application, if he is having the problem stationary then there just is not enough fluid in the system.
Yo tavarish watches SKID FACTORY, I’m soo happy right now. Stuffs great down under
He should contact turbo Yoda - that man knows his stuff..
I also agree that he should contact turbo yoda for some advice
the knowledge is these videos just blows my mind.Great work !
hi tavarish, agree with you, do use oil catch can for each turbo setup, and use SS braided high pressure hose with quality pressure fittings to complete the setup.
I've designed lots of software for integration. looks like you are using Windows, make sure its not the OS stopping the IO from communicating. first see if you can see the Chinese version plunged in to the USB from your control panel. If you can than there may be an issue with the software permissions when dealing with windows 10. I was a software engineer for an Aviation company where we ALWAYS had issues with the same permissions, excepts there was no dev mode for the systems. so it was always in an active state. GOOD TIMES!!!
Demasys true, I see most shops working on an old windows XP for driver reason. I guess the USB is used as serial communication, so it should not be a problem
Use a windows 7 computer!!!
@ Aurelien Burdot, well if you look up what USB stands for, it = Universal Serial Bus, so - YES it is a serial connection. Just a really fancy serial connection.
Try a Linux machine or get a better multiplexer
Windows 10 actually has the best "universal" driver support. It's the manufacturer's not willing to pay for the reprogramming, Microsoft is going to be taking care of that with an iron sledgehammer. Even when dealing with backwards compatibility modes.
try using a generic ftdi driver
or maybe the counterfit chip ch340 is used.
try drivers for those.
also the catch cans will work.
but the suction of the drysump pump should be enough to evacuate them.
if there is nothing else to try with the multiplexer.
try using 32bit windows xp
Kudos for the outreach! You got a good idea and it shouldn't pose an issue. I would definitely use flex seal if not thread locker for your cap end! Good luck on your fuel diagnose. Wrench Everyday!
Hey Tavarish. Fuel vapor smell on braided hoses are normal if they arent PTEF. If you have PTEF then check for leaks, injector oring, loose hose ends or damage flares. Check with the UV light.
@Tavarish talk to Samcrac - he seems to have all the toys needed to reset the airbag lights...
I watch both of them also 🤯
Last time I was this early, tavarish’s hairline wasn’t receding.
im pretty sure the guy was born with a receding hairline
Harry Tautz fuck! I was 8 minutes late
He's not balding, he had to thoroughly think about the amounts of washers needed to fix a Lambo
Lmfao
Is this a channel about hair?
Actually love these videos , if anyone else did these videos it would be so boring but you make it fun and informative!
For the VCI, try the hardware ID on a google search. Ignore the exe and other setup files and look for compatible inf files. Of course this runs the risk of malicious software but this is not my first rodeo with "3rd party" tools from other countries.
The lambo build is the only one I've ever watched and I really enjoyed it. It seems he's just dragging ass now
Have you tried it with the power cord connected to the laptop? Some laptops uses less power to the usb then it is on battery.
1. Catch can will work. Just make sure to cap off one end really well. Only downside I see would be the occasional smell from those filters. If you can find a way to have it mounted upside down, I think that would be easier to mount and maintain.
2. Drivers for that pass through. You may have to manually install drivers onto your laptop. And just do trial and error checking your device manager to see if it read it. I can help with that if needed. You should be able to communicate with the car via usb with the correct drivers because you can assign a usb to a COM port.
3. Fuel smell could be lines or injector seals. If your smelling it near the engine bay I can almost guarantee it’s from the injectors or the seals. If not. I would try that dye and pinpoint a leak if there is any. Check your fuel pump bucket for cracks also.
I love the work you are doing on this Chanel and what is in store for the future of it! Have you seen the 675lt on copart for $10k. It doesn't look like it needs much mechanical work and would have more of a chance against the lambo than the twin turbo f355. It is also in Florida. Keep up the great work! What an inspiration
Would having an oil breather expelling gas next to the hot exhaust not be an issue? Might be worth capping the filter of the catch can off instead just to be safe?
Forgot to add, absolutely loving the channel, keep up the good work!
Paul Whitehouse yes that is an extremely bad idea. There’s no reason for a breather on an oil drain line
That's exactly what I was about to say.
No, you want the sump to have a breather, otherwise you will never get air out of the line and the pump will cavitate and not do its job. Every good turbo drain sump has a breather line specifically for this purpose.
Tavarish just use both ports on the catch can so you'll only need one catch can/turbo sump and put the pump inline and mount the catch can horizontal somewhere underneath so it's out of the way of the exhaust and add extra line to the breather so it doesn't get full of oil and route it up out of the way.
With it gravity fed and pump assisted, it will drain fine
@@tavarish you could always move the breather to a cooler part of the engine and keep the sump below the turbo via a heat resistant hose. Not sure why everyone is thinking this is a major issue.
i think that actia doesn't work with windows 8 or 7 or 10 it only works on xp i once borrowed a chinese one just like the one you have i spent almost 5 days trying to find a solution but i failed until i used a windows xp ona usb then it actually worked great i had to install the driver from the cd and fiddle with some stuff that they gave me with it but it worked.try and use a windows xp you may figure it out PS :the actia wasn't mine it was my friends PS2:i did my best i hope you figure it out big fan of you
@Tavarish Maybe you could try this on an XP running in Virtualbox with USB passthrough to the multiplexer?
@@autotalon i think this can be done if the laptop he is using can read it somehow the laptop that i used to try this the first time on it (windows 8 i think or 10) used to show it as unknown device
This is correct. If the software you are using, does not support USB, it is likely a legacy item. The problem with USB multiplexers is that they generate a USB port that emulates the COM1 port with the correct baud rate. windows xp does this vastly differently than windows 7 and up. A hardware level IRQ maybe required for serious legacy devices but that should predate your vehicle and is unlikely. I recommend installing XP (In jacksonville can help you with that if needed) Then install the drivers in that. If that doesn't work, then you may look into a replacement "multiplexer". You show a device that goes from USB to parallel (DB25 connector) but call it "serial" which is a DB9 connector and mention a "com port" both serial. Parallel and serial are different data streams. Parallel is normally LPT1 and Serial is Com1. If you are using a parallel device on a serial port, it will not work. If you are selecting the wrong port, your device will not connect. I don't know your device specs so can't comment on it. If you need a hardware USB to DB25 connector, they make them for CNC machining. Google Mach3 USB to parallel. You'll find the device. About $40. again works best in XP. These devices have a chip in them that buffers the data from "Universal SERIAL Bus" aka USB to "Parallel". This is rarely done successfully with software driver dependent cables. Clarify what your software is looking for and what adaptors you have. This explains the difference between the two. krplus.net/bidio/c6utnnqkm5CyhHo
@@oldskoolbmw you should paste that in the comments
if you install in win 7 8 or 10, you can go to the properties of the .exe and set "compatibility mode: Windows XP"
Sorry for the late reply! I kept forgetting.
Any half-decent PCV catch-can is going to have internal baffles designed to help separate the oil vapors from the blow-by gasses. You DO NOT WANT THOSE BAFFLES in your turbo oil drain reservoir. Make sure to gut that canister before using it to hold oil from the turbo. Those baffles (if they do exist) will only slow down the draining of your turbos.
Regarding the turbo sump - don't mount the scavenging pump above the turbos drain plug level!
I would build an external tank with a float switch that controls a relay pump your excess oil back into your engine I've seen people do this with Toyota Land Cruiser diesel
Has the charcoal canister for the fuel system been replaced or are the tank vent lines disconnected?
Cars sooo close to completion! With the obd2 scanner, i had the same issue with my scanner for my e46 and took me hours to figure out. There is a way to properly install the drives but i think you may also be able boot the computer using XP to allow compatibility.
If it is a problem with the drivers not being compatible with Windows 10 you can load an OS virtually on your Windows 10 Laptop and you may be able to interact with the USB ports that way. I think I saw a comment somewhere stating that Windows XP is the OS that the drivers usually work on.
Also you may want to try running the installer in Windows XP compatibility mode with Admin rights. Do this by right clicking the executable for the drivers and selecting "Properties" then find the "Compatibility" tab. Select which OS you want in the mode section. Click on Run as Admin too.
For me my gas leak was the filler neck gasket between the filler neck and the gas tank it was old and crusty
That catch can size is a bit excessive, get your local fabricator to weld up a small aluminum tank, as you said the skid factory guys know what's good learn from them, cheers
The driver thing might be certified drivers limitations, chinese hardware doesn't always have the proper certification
Just by clicking start, holding shift and restart you can go into initialization options, and disabling driver certification may allow the driver to be installed.
Hey Tavarish.
Just a quick work around for you.
I’ve used Ross tech Vag com on lambo’s.
Works well enough as it’s an R8 !!
oil needs to catch into a chamber. it needs a turbo sump chamber below the turbo.
Tavarish, this my opinion...
You have a two turbo and you have a problem with one of them. Why do not change the location L to R & R to L.
The turbo you have a problem is the turbo that you modify?
Double check the oil line from the other turbo maybe you have valley and hills, so gravity cannot pick up or leave the system.
Check with the turbo manufacturer specification, how height & low (min. to max) the oil line location and long need to be from the turbo to the oil pan.
I found 2 link maybe can help...
Precision Turbo Talks - Turbocharger Do's & Don'ts
krplus.net/bidio/qdqdZWBlpqzFeaA
How To Kill A New Turbo Quick Part1 Oil Line
krplus.net/bidio/Zr1wfnWChYLcnn4
Good Luck
that was my opinion as well since the beginning I don't see why only one would have the problem and also he hasent tested he's theory by swapping turbos L-R and he hasent taken them off completely to see if the car smokes without them it's blind faith believing that engine built was done correctly even most likely the engine is fine still you have to test it
These things catch fire with OEM setup. I am just looking at all of new potential fire starter places you are creating and hoping you are going to make it run fine. It would be ultimate ending for this build to make a video with 1 hour intensive run on a US Nürburgring (i am not familiar with US tracks) without catching a fire.
how does your fuel tank vent work?
Is it a System where you have a filter on top of it or does it have a filter leading to a hose that's pointed downward? If it doesn't have a hose try putting one on it and point it down and/or check the vent if it's working correctly or if it's sputtering fuel.
Anyways just my 2 cents keep up the good work and have a nice day
Careful with the category 4 hurricane heading your way
They usually do not hit the Orlando area hard.. fun fact that's why Walt Disney put Disney land there!
He's in the Orlando area, the hurricane is hitting about 400 miles+ north along the panhandle
The hurricane went by Tavarish already. He just a little bit north and west of me so I'm sure it caused him no problems even with a new roof going in.
My DSM always smells like fuel. The vent for the tank is unplugged on it though, where it would go to the charcoal canister.
Assuming you are using Windows 10, if you open Cortana, search for device Manager, then in the list find the actia device while it's plugged in. Under properties there is usually a vendorDEVICE ID something like USB\0A5.... which will be under advanced. That is the best way to identify the actual chipset to locate a driver. Often you find multiple devices use the same chips for serial to USB and people find or make drivers for them. I had similar issues with my old Targus USB to serial adapter. Also run into it with my mini-vci for Toyota tech stream.
You might need an older laptop with a native serial port or ExpressCard port. I have also seen people run these diagnostics software through a virtual machine with Windows XP. Also, with regards to the turbo return line, a one-way valve might be a simpler and elegant solution.
Tavarish is a type of a guy who owns a Lamborghini but asks us Honda Toyota peasants what should he do. (Just joking. I like your stuffs man.) 🤣 anyho, try to use an older version of Windows. Maybe that will help with the driver problem? Just random guess tho.
Also ur turbo isnt even clocked fully down. Your drain is on the side of the turbo.....
@tavarish For the USB issue, one quick thing to try is to plug the device through a powered USB hub. I've seen this situation with some devices just not getting enough power from the usb port to work correctly. The trick with these is to use a USB hub that is independently powered and can supply direct power to devices.
I know the generic oil hose setup you have is a means to an end but I would look at a rigid aluminium tube setup where you can form the tubes perfectly around any obstacle.
With your interface, I’ve messed about with diagnostics on just about every car I’ve had. I generally found that the more recent the operating system, the more problems and work arounds I had to find. I would probably try windows xp machine
Man.. your valve stem seals are dry or damaged. also, have you checked for pressure in your oil pan? if you have piston ring issues, the pressure in the bottom of the engine will push oil up into your turbo system( true the oil vent going down to your oil pan) . you will also have oil gathering in the intercooler that might get pushed back into your intake manifold and combusted .mind you that I have no idea what you have done to conclude that there is no internal engine issue:-)
Its cause of the turbo exerting more presure on piston rings? So you think a thighter clearance or sturdier material with tighter clearance?
But then again ud have to have a messed up oil pump system
And a sealed shut pvc system 🙈 then u might build up enought presure
Sorry for many tiny text used to playing mmorpgs 😬😂
@@9002PETER
Not due to the turbo. All engines have a some blow by. But if you have damaged cylinder walls or burnt/ exhausted piston rings , you get execive blow by. Now you are building pressure in your crankcase. Pending on the engine, you might have difrent pressure/vacuum variables. And also pending on the RPM. pressure during idle vacuum during revving is a possibility. when you get unwanted pressure build in the crankcase, you will start to puch pressure in all vented areas in the engine( pressure will always move along the path of less resistance ). but most significantly , if you have a turbo, there is a chance that you have a oil vent tube going down to the oil pan. Not talking about the oilvent going out from the bearinghousing of the turbo. but from the compressor discharge to intercooler housing. So now you are building up a oil composite in your intercooler and pipes. This means that you now will have oil pushed in trhue your intake manifold and burning oil. You might even in a worst case scenario be able to hydroblock your engine due to this if the oil build up gets to a point ( can't compress oil, hence volume of your cylinder shrinks when execive amounts of oil gets in there).
Hey Tavarish have you ever considered doing a garage tour/update? I've seen your videos installing the cabinets and four post lift and tools, but I'd love to see how you have it laid out now/if anything has changed. Coming from a guy who dreams to have a garage like yours(tools and cars)
I do garage updates every friday.
@tavarish fyi as for the drivers issue, if you use windows 7-8 or 10, make sure to disable the unsigned driver verification. Those chinese drivers are normally unsigned and denied by windows.
have you considered a pressure regulator on the oil feeds?
they need little pressure to function properly.
as long as the bearings are wet you are good to go. 5 psi would do.
“In the arms of an angel” 😂😂😂😂
I think the catch can that the skid factory used was a subaru part
Hope you read this, so on a previous build I’ve seen online that contains a miniature sump for the oil to drain out of the turbo when the engine is shut off, this also allows some release of pressure on the turbo bearings. Just imagine a small rectangular box that sits below the turbo. However the oil drain must sit facing directly downwards for that approach.
Hey bud. The fuel vapor smell can be from the venting pipe from the charcoal filter. I had car do the same thing but i could only smell it in the car when driving. I had to add a longer breather pipe to vent it at the rear off the car.
Damn. That oil leak is way to close to your exhaust for comfort. I hope you have a fire extinguisher in car.
Good GOD man! PLEASE tell me you're painting the back of that transmission lol!!!
He said he will in previous videos
You can buy turbo oil sumps that are designed to attach to the bottom of the turbo to allow the oil to drain at the correct rate. A scavenge pump then sucks the oil back to the engine sump and a breather line attaches to the crank case to equalize the pressure. However I'm not sure if anything would need doing different in a dry sump system. You may be able to use the catch cans you bought but I'd probably just try using one for both turbos as they look a lot bigger than most turbo sumps. You could remove the filter and attach a breather line from that port to the crank case.
Sounds like a good plan. I kept hearing about this channel so I finally sub’ed... Good stuff!
The oil drain HAS(!!) to point downwards in order to work properly. Right not the oil is collecting in what is the actual side of the turbo which you pointed down, but it's only supposed to flow past that side. And why would you want to put a tank on the bottom? There is no reason to increase the static oil volume, just use a plain scavenger pump with a one way valve to keep oil from sitting in the pump or turbo after turning the car off.
The reason for a sump is to avoid putting vacuum on the oil seals in the turbo.
@@tavarish How about a nozzle/narrow section behind the turbo and in front of the scavenger pump? You would prevent the oil pressure in the turbo from becoming too low by causing a slight resistance to the oil flow behind the turbo. Similar to how the pressure difference in climate control units is created (an expansion valve in that case). But I'm sure that there are also variable scavenger pumps that you could program to keep a steady positive pressure in the turbo (the benefit of this option that the oil flow rates and pressure for your turbos would be somewhat variable and independent from the rest of the engine).
The oil pressure in the turbo wont get low. Its internally regulated and gets engine oil pressure in. The output is gravity feed and has no pressure to it to begin with. It just needs to come straight off the turbo down to the catch can and from the can pumped up to the cars static oil can rather than the sump pan. Its a simple issue to sort no reason to over engineer it. He has all he needs.
@@tavarish love that you read the comments. Have you tried contacting turbo Yoda? You mentioned skid factory - he knows his stuff
You may need an actual serial port (RS232), not a USB to serial adapter.
It's the case with old BMWs
Coyoda in Australia. Has the solution for the oil drain. Some of the best stuff on the market for custom turbo setups.
Tavarish, if you can find out what chip it uses you can get a generic driver. Most usb to serial converters use the same chips so i would pick up a serial to usb adapter and just install the drivers. I think there is a generic driver by prolific too.
What about a one way valve for the oil return?
I was thinking the same thing, quick and simple fix, although there might not be sufficient pressure for that to work since it is gravity fed.
Does it have a canister purge valve? because if it is clogged or failing it will smell like fuel
A Smoke Machine is commonly used for tracing fuel evap system leaks.
Ive built alot of big turbo projects and ive never had to use one of those catch cans. Relocate the dump pipe to the oil pan instead. See if the fuel odor is coming from the exaust or heads when you shut the car off, it may be over pressured. With the ODB Device, did you update your windows since you got the car?
Hi Tavarish,
I do use this interface with a software called actia multidiag and setting up the devise is the most difficult thing to do.
First, make sure this interface is an original vci interface, otherwise it won't work well.
Second, you have to install manually the driver, Windows finds one which doesn't work well. The driver is named : passthru + XS 2G. You can download it on actia website.
Third, I had to use a 32bit Windows version (XP ) to make it work.
Finally, there's a serial written on the back of the interface that you have to enter into the software when you are setting up the COM port. Be sure to use an unused COM port, create one if needed.
If you need to download actia multidiag which is an universal obd2 tool for every hardware in a car (engine, ABS, airbag, ac,...), I know it supports Lamborghini hardware, please contact me so I can give you a copy.
And keep doing videos, there're great.
Cheers from France 😉
Why cant you just clock the turbo so the drain is down?
skaterdrw1986 EXACTLY
By the time you finish your car,Hoover would have bought another 2 cars...
fauzi hassan...yes and broken them
he just bought a 996 turbo......
More like bought tavarish two More ferrari, Bentley, mercedes, and I expect the 200k Mile 911
On top of using a 32 bit OS make sure your usb is mapped to the appropriate COM port and baud rate, ecc, etc is set according to recommended settings
There are two main ways to do the sump system, for example:
1: Have a single tank as the oil sump, use 2 oil lines of same length and same size that connected to the turbo drain, and route them into the new sump tank, put the oil pump after the new sump tank so vaccum is pulled inside the tank and onto both lines, then route the pump directly back to the oil tank. This way you are basicly making the sump tank into a giant T/Y fitting but you get rid of the non-equal flow rate just by using the same length, same size and shorter run of tubing, and its cheaper. Alternatively you can have a drain tank on each line and route directly into the pump.
2: Have 2 pump sucking onto each turbo then route both directly back to the oil tank, you still needed a sump tank in between the turbo and the pump though, also more expensive and it is wasted capacity for 2 powerful pump.
P.S. One important thing: the tubing after the sump tank and between the pump have to be at least 2 size larger then the turbo drain line, this is because oil take in air after going through the turbo, volume of the oil is increased and must be accounted for.
Paint the dif cover
I don't understand why you aren't talking to Ed Bolian. He clearly has the hookups for Lamborghinis and you've done stuff with him in the past.
I've already spoken with Ed. He doesn't have the system, and the only people that he knows have it are shops in Atlanta. Not DIY friendly.
I figured that may have been the case but worth the try
@@tavarish I think finding a Window OS that was being used at the same time as the car was manufactured would do the trick
had a supercharged s2000 before with aftermarket standalone that disabled the evap system. The fuel fill vent eventually clogged / broke, my assumption is that since the evap system was disabled, it kept clogging the system and eventually broke the vent. Also noticed the pressure when i opened the gas cap was higher than normal after using the standalone. During diagnostics, i disconnected some of the vacuum lines to the evap solenoids and charcoal canister fuel was pouring out.
Regarding FIRE protection. Fitting an aircraft style extinguishing system would be quite simple. If you use CO2 a couple of regular extinguishers could be modified to have AN fitting on the output, and distributed with a few pipes to the most dangerous areas. That would be an awesome upgrade. Wrench everyday.
You should try on an
older system like XP. Cars diagnose tool work better on these. ;)
yes.
Big red flag is the smell of gas along with the car previously catching on fire that would be first concern, as others have mentioned with a fire suppression system
I've seen this issue many times. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the evantuator from the golden arch pipes. Then, I would buy a new Z-pop filter...but make sure it comes with a flux capacitor converter, or else it will leak transistor oil into the turbo test tube and it won't work. After that, just reconnect the evantuator to the GA pipes and BAM...no more oil leaks! You're welcome!
driver booster, is a life saver when it comes to rare drivers, it saved me a bunsh of times, try it out, just connect the device and start the programme, itll search and download and install the driver automatically